Punto in Aria needlepoint lace panel, c.1620

#6224 $7,000

Punto in Aria needlepoint lace panel, c.1620

Punto in aria, which means "stitch in the air", is the Italian name for this type of needlepoint lace. The lace has no woven or plaited foundation. The technique developed in the 16th century to form separated decorative point edgings for linen shirts and chemises.

By the early 17th century, when this superb panel was made, experienced lace makers were able to fashion continuous lengths of lace. This guipure lace is worked mainly in the buttonhole stitch.

This is a typical design of the early 17th century. According to Heather Toomer in Antique Lace:Identifying Types and Techniques, "By 1620, designs of simple flower heads borne on flowing, curving stems were common but the element of symmetry still remained." Punto in aria was also made in countries other than Italy—there was a large center of production in Flanders. Thus, the piece could be Italian or Flemish.

When I first saw this panel, my heart skipped a beat. The viewer has a feeling of quiet awe in the presence of such a masterpiece. The tiny handmade stitches in the lace endow it with a human quality that transcends time, connecting us to a master lace maker from 385 years ago. King James I ruled England then; the Mayflower brought the first European settlers in America; and the shogunate of Tokugawa Ieyasu unified Japan.

This important lace panel, probably used to decorate the bottom of a priest's robe, was part of a collection that was assembled in 1981 in Europe. It is a special find for the serious collector. The lace is very old and rare; the work is exquisite; and the design is breathtakingly beautiful.

Pieces of this quality almost never come on the market. The cost of this piece in 1981 was $6,000. Accounting for inflation, that is equivalent to $13,380 today.

The condition is almost excellent. I found just a few breaks and mends in the connecting bars.

It measures 8" high by 111" long (over 3 yards).